What You Need to Know About Keratin

Keratin is more than just a buzzword in beauty products it's a critical protein that forms the foundation of your hair, skin, and nails. Found throughout the body, keratin provides structure, protection, and strength to epithelial cells, which cover both external and internal surfaces. It’s also a key player in maintaining the health of organs, including your lungs and digestive tract.

If you're curious about keratin’s role in health, beauty, and skincare or wondering if keratin treatments are worth the hype here’s what you need to know.

What Is Keratin?

Keratin is a fibrous protein made by cells called keratinocytes. It's found in the outermost layers of the skin, as well as in hair and nails. Keratin is extremely durable it doesn't dissolve in water, acids, or most solvents which makes it an ideal protective barrier.

There are 54 different types of keratin, classified into:

• Type I keratins: Smaller, acidic proteins found in outer skin layers, hair, and nails.

• Type II keratins: Larger proteins with a neutral pH found in internal organs like the lungs, liver, and kidneys.

Keratin is further categorized by structure:

• Alpha-keratin: Found in humans and other mammals.

• Beta-keratin: Found in birds and reptiles, contributing to feathers, scales, and beaks.

Benefits of Keratin for Hair, Skin, and Nails

Your hair is composed of about 90% keratin, which explains why so many hair treatments rely on this protein. Keratin strengthens hair, reduces breakage, and improves texture and shine.

Common keratin uses include:

• Keratin-infused shampoos and conditioners

• Salon keratin treatments (e.g., Brazilian blowouts)

• Nail strengthening products

• Dietary supplements promoting keratin synthesis

Biotin, a B vitamin, is also known to support keratin production and is commonly included in beauty supplements aimed at improving skin, hair, and nails.

Natural Sources That Support Keratin Production

Keratin supplements exist, but your body can also produce keratin naturally with help from key nutrients:

• Biotin: Found in eggs, salmon, and sunflower seeds

• Vitamin A: Found in carrots, sweet potatoes, and kale

• Zinc: Found in beef liver, legumes, and nuts

• Omega-3 fatty acids: Found in salmon and trout

A diet rich in these nutrients may boost natural keratin levels and improve overall skin and hair health.

Keratin Treatments: What to Expect

Salon keratin treatments use a concentrated liquid form of the protein to smooth frizz and add shine. After application, hair is blow-dried and flat-ironed to seal in the product. These treatments can last several weeks but often involve the use of chemicals like formaldehyde to achieve results.

Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, and repeated exposure especially for stylists can pose health risks including:

• Eye, nose, and throat irritation

• Allergic reactions

• Skin burns or blisters

• Hair loss or scalp damage

• Mood disturbances

• Long-term cancer risk with repeated exposure

To minimize health risks, look for formaldehyde-free keratin treatments or consult your stylist about safer options.

When Keratin Overproduces: Hyperkeratosis

While keratin is essential, overproduction can cause skin issues, a condition known as hyperkeratosis. It may result from inflammation, friction, or genetic factors. Some common types include:

• Keratosis pilaris: Small bumps on the skin, often on arms or thighs ("chicken skin")

• Actinic keratosis: Rough, sun-damaged patches that can become precancerous

• Calluses and corns: Thickened skin from pressure or friction

• Lichen planus: Purplish, itchy rashes on inner arms and legs

• Eczema and psoriasis: Inflammatory conditions leading to thick, scaly patches

• Ichthyoses: Genetic disorders causing dry, scaly skin

• Chronic folliculitis: Blocked hair follicles leading to irritation

Treatment options for hyperkeratosis depend on the cause but may include:

• Exfoliants (like salicylic acid or retinoids)

• Prescription creams for inflammation or immune support

• Cryotherapy or laser therapy for actinic keratosis

• Manual removal for calluses and corns

• Hydrating and anti-inflammatory skincare routines

Keratin Supplements: Are They Worth It?

While many people turn to supplements for hair and nail growth, keratin itself is not always easily absorbed in its natural form. Some supplements use soluble keratin, which may be better absorbed. However, getting nutrients like biotin, vitamin A, and zinc from whole foods remains one of the most effective ways to support keratin production naturally.

Also, keratin supplements often come from animal sources like wool or feathers, making them unsuitable for vegans.

Is Keratin Safe for Everyone?

Keratin is naturally produced by your body and is generally safe in topical or dietary forms. However, risks arise when keratin is paired with harmful chemicals, especially in salon treatments. If you're considering a keratin-based product:

• Check labels for formaldehyde

• Choose clean beauty options when possible

• Consult your dermatologist if you have sensitive skin or scalp conditions

The Bottom Line

Keratin is a powerful protein that supports the structure and health of your skin, hair, and nails. You can maintain healthy keratin levels by eating nutrient-rich foods, using gentle keratin-infused products, and being mindful of the risks associated with chemical treatments.

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